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Selecting Plants for Your Landscape
Nancy Tom
I’ve
heard many times: I bought a plant, planted it and it died. Or, I
bought a plant, planted it and now it’s all over the place.
For many people, walking into a
nursery is intimidating. Even with the help of the nursery personnel,
the array of trees, shrubs, perennials, annuals, grasses, herbs, water
plants, vines...need I say more? can be overwhelming. All of these
plants have developed a specific gene set to survive in certain
conditions that match up with soil, water and light. If you know your
needs, and you know your soil, water and light, you are on your way.
You are not there, just on your way.
So, let’s take a look at this.
Let’s say you want to camouflage a long cedar fence across your back
yard. How to do that? There are a couple of ways, but I’m glad to hear
you say “I’m not going to buy fifty arborvitae and plant them two feet
away from each other.” Arborvitae is the builder’s special. For
numerous reasons, avoid it.
Fences can be broken up by plantings. Start with a small, garden-sized
tree. Notice the 10-year size guess on the tag. What are your light
conditions? Do you have soil that is well-drained and with a pH between
6.3 and 6.8? Do you have easy access to water so your new plants won’t
dehydrate and die?
Landscape failure is often
attributed to poor growing conditions and that includes poor soil. Add
at least six inches of compost for every twelve inches of depth dug.
Then, choose a tree that matches the conditions in your yard. A tree
that grows slowly is ideal; you will enjoy it for many years.
Nice fall color wouldn’t hurt and possibly some interesting bark or red
branches for winter interest will only sweeten the deal.
Looking for a conifer? Are you an
aspiring lumberjack? That’s OK; just choose wisely. Some conifers can
grow at the rate of four feet a year once their roots have established.
Then, look for shrubs that are
scaled to work with the tree you’ve chosen and that match your light,
soil and water conditions. You don’t want shrubs that get to be
enormous in ten years if your tree is slow-growing. Low-growing shrubs,
some evergreen and others deciduous with different bloom times and
foliar color would be just the thing.
Do you like perennial color?
Include some drought-tolerant perennials such as daylilies, salvias,
bee balm or daisies and enjoy the show. A drought-tolerant sword fern
for fluff is a nice touch.
This bed is a good start. Plan a
low, shrubby transition area, and repeat. Include a bench or some seat
rocks and now you have a destination point.
Plants aren’t the only thing to
distract the eye from a long fence line. Consider a large trellis with
a fast-climbing vine and colorful shrubs at the base. Do you want a
vegetable garden and have full sun? Use the fence as a trellis to grow
peas, beans or small squash. Or, consider a patio area with a cocktail
table and chairs.
This summer I’m teaching Selecting
Plants for Your Landscape at the Lake Washington Technical College
(August 2010). You will walk away with plant lists and solutions. Bring
your notebook and questions.
See you there!
~ Nancy Tom is an
environmental horticulturist who designs, installs and maintains
landscapes for Down-to-Earth Gardens, Inc. This article was written for
the Redmond Reporter, and the Kirkland Reporter, May 2010. ~
Archived
Articles
Edible Landscaping, The Redmond Reporter and The Kirkland Reporter, 2010
Choosing a Landscape Designer, The Redmond Reporter and The Kirkland Reporter, 2010
Using Burgundy and Plum
in the Garden, Garden Showcase
Great Plant Picks 2005
Plant a Vegetable
Garden, The Redmond Reporter
and The Kirkland Reporter,
2010
2003 Great Plant Picks, Garden
Showcase
Soil Interfacing: Avoiding Drainage
Problems, Fine Gardening
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